My husband and I recently visited Italy’s lake district for the first time, staying in Stresa on Italy’s enchanting Lake Maggiore. Located in Italy’s Piedmont region on the lake’s western side, Stresa is a great base for exploring this area.
You’ll get to enjoy the breathtaking views, exquisite Piemontese cuisine and wine, and the blend of relaxation and adventure that Northern Italy has to offer. If you’re dreaming of a serene and luxurious getaway in Italy, Lake Maggiore should be at the top of your list (and for more than just a day trip).
Here’s how to spend four days on Lake Maggiore.
Day One
Stress-Free in Stresa
After taking an overnight flight from New York, we landed in Milan the next morning. Before we knew it, we were in a private transfer to Stresa, and in under an hour we reached Boutique Hotel Stresa, our home for the next four nights.
Boutique Hotel Stresa is a recently restored and renovated historic villa that was converted into a five-star hotel in 2023. We were immediately captivated by its charm, modern and elegant design, and prime location across from the lake.
After settling into our room, we enjoyed lunch on the hotel’s rooftop terrace. Once we saw that unobstructed Alp-lined view of Lake Maggiore and The Borromean Islands, we immediately knew that coming here was a great idea. The plateful of agnolotti del plin (a meat-filled Piemontese pasta similar to tortellini) that I had for lunch was the perfect first meal in Italy.
To start our trip on a relaxing note, we booked massages and reserved a private spa suite at our hotel. Rather than just having a traditional spa, there were four different spa suites to choose from, each with a slightly different theme and features.
This was an excellent way to begin our trip and I *highly* recommend starting pretty much any vacation with some self-care in a spa (the stunning Sisley Paris spa at ROMEO Hotel in Naples was where this habit of mine was born).
That evening, we dined at a local osteria and started with an order of vitello tonnato, a traditional Piemontese dish that literally translates to “tuna’d veal.” I first tried vitello tonnato on my first visit to Piedmont and have loved it since. Since Northern Italy is well-known for risotto, I ordered a saffron risotto with tuna tartare and burrata for my main dish which was out of this world.
One thing I’ve learned is that the best way to eat well in Italy is to eat local dishes rather than ordering dishes I may be familiar with already (if you’re craving a good carbonara, go to Rome).
Day Two
The Borromean Islands by Private Boat
After a good night’s sleep, we met our private guide for the day, Marcia, in our hotel lobby.
Marcia walked us down to the pier where we boarded the private boat that was waiting for us. We got to visit all three of The Borromean Islands, strategically avoiding big crowds along the way (Marcia knew when each spot would be busiest).
Our first stop in the morning was Isola Madre, famous for its lush botanical gardens. There was vibrant flora and exotic birds from around the world, including several varieties of pheasant.
Next, we headed to Isola Pescatore, the smallest of the Borromean Islands. We enjoyed a leisurely lunch at a lakeside restaurant, savoring fresh local dishes followed by an espresso while soaking in views of the water.
We spent the afternoon on Isola Bella, home to the Borromean Palace. We explored its opulent interiors, incredible tapestries, intricate grottoes, and immaculately landscaped gardens. Marcia noticed when we arrived that the flag atop the palace was raised, which meant that members of the royal family were there that day.
Not long after, she discreetly pointed out the Borromean Prince to us. Before our trip, I didn’t know there even was a Borromean Prince, but of course, I was immediately invested.
While we could have done this independently, having a private guide allowed us to experience the lake in the most seamless way possible and at our own pace. It was nice not having to spend my entire day figuring out where we should go next and how to get there.
Dinner that night was one of the culinary highlights of our trip. We dined at Le Bolle, a fine dining restaurant that showcases local ingredients with innovative techniques and a stunning presentation.
The restaurant has five outdoor “bubbles,” offering guests a private dining experience that can be fully enclosed or left open to the elements.
Every course on the tasting menu was exquisite, including the lamb carpaccio and risotto made with pigeon, local berries, and foie gras. Also, Piedmont is an incredible wine region so of course we only ordered local wines that came from nearby wineries (the Gattinara was probably my favorite).
This was truly one of the most spectacular days I’ve ever spent in Italy.
Day Three
Day Trip to Lake Orta
With the help of our hotel’s concierge, we arranged a private car to take us to Orta San Giulio, a charming lakeside village with cobblestone streets and stunning views. Lake Orta was a short drive from Stresa and proved to be a hidden gem.
For lunch, we dined at an osteria in Orta San Giulio’s Piazza Motta that Marcia had recommended; I knew we were going to eat well before we even sat down. The special of the day was freshly made tagliatelle with pesto and porcini mushrooms and I couldn’t order it fast enough, along with a bottle of Barbera d’Alba, another incredible Piemontese wine.
The relaxed pace of lunch was a perfect representation of “la dolce vita” (the sweet life), which is one aspect of Italian culture that many travelers often miss out on. On your next trip to Italy, don’t forget to slow down and enjoy moments like this—it’s a vacation, not a race to check off monuments you’ve been photographed in front of.
After lunch, we took a boat to Isola San Giulio which felt ancient (of course it did, it was founded in the 4th century) and was incredibly quiet and just peaceful. The boat ride only cost EUR 4.50 roundtrip and was about 15 minutes in each direction from Piazza Motta. We spent a few hours wandering its peaceful paths and taking in the serene atmosphere before taking another boat back and returning to Stresa.
Dinner that evening was at the Michelin-recommended Trattoria La Botte, which was less formal than Le Bolle but also put a creative spin on local ingredients and flavors. My favorite dishes of the night were the polenta with porcini mushrooms and pomegranate seeds, and the French onion soup ravioli. We managed to save room for dessert and shared a delicious fig cannolo which was [chef’s kiss].
Day Four
Pasta-Making in a Local’s Home
On our last day, we took a taxi to nearby Baveno and treated ourselves to a private pasta-making class. What was unique about this experience was that the class didn’t take place at a restaurant or a cooking school—we went to someone’s apartment!
Our teacher and hostess for the afternoon was a Cesarina named Gabriella. She welcomed us with warmth and enthusiasm and taught us how to make fresh potato gnocchi from scratch.
Once our dough was formed, we carefully shaped each gnocco by hand (“gnocchi” is plural) before cooking them in boiling water for a minute or two.
Gabriella had prepared a fresh pesto to top the gnocchi and she served it with a local rosé that had been chilling in her fridge. Sitting at her table and enjoying the lunch we prepared while overlooking Lake Maggiore was an unforgettable experience.
Arrivederci Stresa
The next morning, it was time to bid farewell to Lake Maggiore. The Stresa train station was thankfully only a few minutes away from our hotel (we could’ve walked) which made it incredibly easy to include Stresa on our multi-city itinerary.
Our next stop on this trip was Rome, where another culinary adventure was waiting for us.
