The day after the conference, which was also the last day of my trip, I had the opportunity to visit the stunning island of Ischia, a destination I’ve been dreaming of visiting ever since I first heard the name. When I first saw the film The Talented Mr. Ripley, I became immediately obsessed with the Italian seaside, and its fictional town of “Mongibello,” which was based on Positano. When I did some research to find out where it was filmed (thanks, IMDb), I learned that a good deal of the movie was shot on the island of Ischia.
On this trip, I learned that director Anthony Minghella was having a hard time finding the perfect location for filming. The story was set in the 1950s, and present-day Positano looked too modern to pass for The Amalfi Coast in the mid-20th century. Minghella was ready to give up when someone casually suggested he check out nearby Ischia. The moment he arrived on the island, he became enchanted with its authenticity and immediately knew that this largely unspoiled island would be the perfect setting for the movie. Funny enough, I was also immediately enchanted by Ischia at first sight and was ready to take in as much of the island as I could.
WHAT MAKES ISCHIA UNIQUE
Ischia is a great destination for travelers looking to unplug, relax, visit ancient historic sites, enjoy fantastic local food and wine, be as active as they want (or don’t want), and of course, take in the sea. Since it is both volcanic and an island, Ischia has the unique distinction of offering visitors both a seaside destination with sandy beaches where they can enjoy the sun, and spas with natural hot springs (Terme in Italian) to luxuriate in. Plenty of destinations throughout Europe offer one or the other, but Ischia is the rare destination that offers both.
Often referred to by locals as “The Green Island,” Ischia’s rocky coast has a green tint to it due to its volcanic past. The compressed volcanic ash mixed with minerals from the sea created a type of rock called tufo verde, which is only found in Ischia and a few other parts of the world. One of the most visible displays of this is in the small town of Lacco Ameno, right in the middle of the sea. It’s called Il Fungo (“the mushroom”) and is a wonder of nature that I couldn’t even begin to understand.
HOW TO GET TO ISCHIA
One of the charms of Ischia may also be one of its challenges, and that’s the fact that there is no commercial airport on the island. Located in the Bay of Naples (along with nearby Procida and their celebrity neighbor, Capri), Ischia can only be reached by boat. While Ultraluxe travelers may prefer a private charter, there are plenty of ferry and hydrofoil options to get travelers to Ischia from Naples, Sorrento, The Amalfi Coast, and other nearby towns.
After about an hour on the hydrofoil from Naples (there’s also a larger, slower ferry available—that ride is about an hour and a half long), we arrived on the island in time to have a nice, traditional breakfast. Along with a delicious cappuccino (and an espresso, I love my coffee), I was treated to my first ever Cornetto Ischitano, which I will not soon forget. A cornetto is basically Italy’s version of a croissant, but the Cornetto Ischitano is its own special thing. It is made from a combination of puff pastry and brioche dough which gives it a unique and sweet taste all its own, and sometimes has a sweet fruit filling. After breakfast, we set out to do some sightseeing and began with Castello Aragonese d’Ischia.
WHAT TO DO IN ISCHIA
In addition to seeing Il Fungo in person, swimming in the sea, and relaxing at the spa, Ischia has many historical sites to visit, too. Chief among them is probably the Aragonese Castle (Castello Aragonese d’Ischia) and its twenty-five-century-long history. The views from the castle (and of course the castle itself) are not to be missed. Film buffs may recognize it as the Fortified Fortress in Men in Black: International.
If you are someone who loves ancient history and seeing ancient artifacts up close, be sure to check out the Archaeological Museum of Pithecusae. The collection here has ancient artifacts dating from the prehistoric to Roman ages, including La Coppa di Nestore (Nestor’s Cup) which was created in the eighth century B.C.
Visitors will also want to visit the towns of Sant’Angelo and Forio; I learned on this trip that there are six towns with six mayors on the Island of Ischia. Sant’Angelo is a small town on a small, sandy beach with lovely shops and restaurants and where we stopped in for a local liqueur tasting. I particularly loved visiting Il Pirata in Sant’Angelo, a local ceramics shop featuring handmade items that made for great souvenirs (I bought two fish home from their “aquarium”).
Forio sits high up on a hill on the island’s west side and is the site of the incredibly charming Chiesa del Soccorso. Built in the 14th century, Chiesa del Soccorso sits on a steep promontory, making it one of the most stunning spots to view a sunset from in all of Italy. We also visited Giardini Ravino, a botanical garden located in Forio and home to several varieties of cactus, exotic birds, beautiful lemon trees (with lemons the size of potatoes), and countless other types of plant life.
WHAT TO EAT IN ISCHIA
After our visit to the castle, we headed to lunch and enjoyed a nice spread of appetizers including local meats, cheeses and Ischian wine to start. If you’ve never had Ischian wine, it’s because there simply is not enough to go around. There’s a limited number of vineyards on the island producing a limited supply of wine, which means Ischian wine does not get widely distributed outside of Ischia.
For my main dish, I had the pasta coniglio all’Ischitana which has a sauce made with stewed rabbit. It was incredibly tender, and I wish I had a plate of it in front of me right now (seriously). Coniglio all’Ischitana is also served as a stew, but the pasta variation may be more accessible to diners who may be hesitant to try rabbit on its own.
HOW MANY DAYS DO I NEED IN ISCHIA
While I only had the opportunity to visit Ischia on a day trip, I would recommend spending at least three nights on the island, if not more. If you are going to take the time to visit the island, it is certainly worth dedicating time to both relaxation and taking in the sites as opposed to racing to take in some of these sites in one day. If you are planning to visit Italy on a multicity itinerary and want to spend some of your time relaxing in the sun off the beaten path in a destination that does not feel remote, Ischia is an excellent option.
WHEN TO VISIT ISCHIA
While Ischia is open and full of locals year-round, the ideal months to visit would be May, June, September, and October. The peak summer months of July and August tend to get very crowded (and very hot) which can make it more difficult to enjoy the island. Ischia may be largely unknown to American tourists, but it is popular among European tourists, so be aware that you aren’t as likely to see the same large number of American tourists on Ischia as you would in nearby Sorrento, Capri, and the Amalfi Coast.
GOODBYE, ITALY (FOR NOW)
After a full day of eating, drinking, walking, sightseeing, and taking in this incredible island destination, it was time to catch our ferry and head back to mainland Italy. As much as I enjoyed my day on Ischia, it left me wanting more, and now I am determined to visit again. The next time, I know I will want to stay longer so I can truly unplug and enjoy all the island has to offer; it’s the perfect break from the fast pace that I’ve grown accustomed to keeping on a multicity European vacation.
The next morning, I boarded my flight at Naples-Capodichino International Airport, very grateful for the week I’d just had. This was not only an incredible opportunity to grow my business, but also a chance for me to visit (and revisit) some of Italy’s most incredible destinations and their incredible food and wine offerings. Going to Italy is always a good idea, and I hope to return again soon. Maybe even later this year… 🤍🪷🇮🇹
