Key Takeaways (Quick Answer):
- Silver Spirit, the Silversea ship we cruised on, carries up to 636 guests with 415 crew, so the ship never feels crowded and the staff learn your name and preferences.
- The fare includes your suite, meals, drinks including alcohol, wifi, gratuities, onboard entertainment, spa and fitness club access, butler service and, depending on the fare, excursion credits.
- Only one port on this twelve-night itinerary was actually inside a fjord. The other fjords were reached by bus on excursions.
- Book Norway excursions ahead of time. Many involve long drives and several modes of transport, and the ship waits for its own excursions if they run late.
- Denmark earns its place on a Norway itinerary and is worth visiting.
- Dining and drinking ashore in Denmark and Norway is expensive, which changes what an all-inclusive fare is worth.
Before opening White Lotus Travel Design, I had never been on a cruise.
That changed pretty quickly. Within my first three years, I cruised the Caribbean and the Mediterranean aboard Virgin Voyages, and the Rhine and the Rhône aboard AmaWaterways.
This past August, I upped my game and went on my first ever ultra-luxury cruise, aboard Silversea. Not only was the experience brand new, but so were the destinations my husband and I visited. Our twelve-night itinerary aboard Silver Spirit sailed from Copenhagen to Amsterdam, porting in Denmark and Norway.
Was visiting Denmark and Norway on an ultra-luxury cruise the right move for us? The answer may surprise you.
What does "ultra-luxury" actually mean on a cruise ship?
For starters, ultra-luxury cruises are on smaller, more intimate ships with significantly fewer people on board compared to big ship cruises. Our ship, Silver Spirit, has a crew of 415 and only 636 guests on board, making it easier for the crew to learn guest preferences and get to know us by name. There were very few lines or long waits to be seated in restaurants, though in most cases it was best to have a reservation.
The fare includes a spacious suite, all meals (aside from a few specialty restaurants), drinks (including alcoholic beverages), the in-suite minibar (which gets restocked with your favorites), standard wifi, onboard entertainment, gratuities, spa/fitness center access, and even excursion credits depending on which fare you choose. Walking into our suite for the first time we were delighted to see a bottle of champagne on ice sitting next to a fresh orchid.
All suites on board Silversea ships include butler service, which made getting in-suite dining whenever we wanted very easy. Having breakfast in the suite before going on early excursions was a game changer. Our butler, Cecilia, transformed our coffee table into a fully set table (the leaf hides in your walk-in closet), with each of our meals set as we ordered them.
Cecilia also made dining and spa reservations for us, offered to unpack our suitcases, and even offered to draw a bath (spoilers: no, I did not take a bath, though I liked the idea).
On our first day, she brought us a pillow menu, which was a small box of pillow samples so we could feel the different options and choose what we wanted (I went for memory foam).
As a culinary travel expert, I love to dine locally when I’m on a trip, and this vacation was no different. Our itinerary gave us plenty of time to go on food tours, visit local markets, and enjoy some fantastic food halls and restaurants, sampling some of the best seafood I’ve ever had, along with trying reindeer, moose, and whale for the first time.
The cost of dining/living in general in Denmark and Norway is higher than in the US, which made having excellent food on our ship an added bonus (the cost of dining on land can add up very quickly here).
What is it like to travel as an LGBTQ+ couple on an ultra-luxury cruise?
Traveling as a same-sex couple, my husband and I were not sure whether or not we would feel like we fit in on this cruise. First off, the onboard demographic veered older than us, with the majority of guests being 60+.
The night before we boarded, we were seated next to two ladies at dinner at a restaurant in Copenhagen. We could tell they were American and wondered if they’d be on our ship. Not long after, we started chatting and it turned out that yes, we would be on the same ship.
Things were starting to look up.
When we got on board and saw the daily programming, we were surprised and happy to see there would be a daily LGBTQ+ meetup. We didn’t go on day one (Cecilia made me a massage appointment), but when we went on day two, we were very happy to see two other couples there, one of which happened to be from New York as well. We quickly became friends with them and started attending the meetup every evening.
As the cruise went on, there were about 12 or 14 of us that wound up being there every day. It was really nice making a small group of friends on board who we enjoyed time with on excursions, over drinks, and at dinner.
We knew we were not going on a “gay cruise,” but it was certainly very nice to meet other members of the community on board.
How much of a Denmark and Norway itinerary is actually in the fjords?
On this itinerary, not much time was spent directly in the fjords. I knew we were visiting smaller coastal towns and cities such as Aarhus and Kristiansand, and I knew we were porting in at least one fjord (Vik). One thing that’s really important when you’re looking at a Norway itinerary is understanding that your ship may not actually port or anchor directly in any fjords.
That said, there were lots of opportunities to visit some of the most beautiful fjords in Norway on excursions, which I strongly recommend booking in advance. There are some cruise destinations where you can easily do your own thing, but in a destination like Norway (where you may take a long bus ride and multiple modes of transportation during an excursion), I find it most convenient to book through the cruise line. If a cruise line’s excursion is running late, the ship will wait for it.
In the ultra-luxury space, the excursions tended to have fewer passengers on them, so even a bus tour never felt oversized or impersonal.
What is it like to sail into a fjord port?
Sailing into Vik was nothing short of dramatic, with waterfalls cascading down mountains, and a shore dotted with colorful little homes. The one true fjord port on our itinerary, Vik may have been my favorite destination on the trip.
Vik (aka Vik i Sogn) sits on the Sognefjord, and was the northernmost port on our itinerary. Our veranda faced a waterfall, which was absolutely stunning. We were also the only cruise ship in the fjord, which really made me understand the benefit of traveling on a small, ultra-luxury ship.
What are the best excursions on a Denmark and Norway ultra-luxury cruise?
The best excursions will depend on your personal preference. There were lots of options to choose from on our Denmark and Norway cruise including walking tours, food tours, sightseeing, hikes, museums, and lots of different ways to be on the water. Many of the ports offered kayaking, deep sea fishing, seaplanes, and RIB excursions, giving about a dozen passengers at a time a speedy boat ride, either along the coast or in a fjord. We did not go on a RIB, but they were very popular.
From Aalborg, Denmark, we did an “Era of the Vikings” excursion, which started by visiting Fyrkat Viking Museum. It consisted of a Viking homestead recreation, and a separate Viking-Age Ring Fortress with original ramparts, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We had traditional Danish smørrebrød for lunch, and also visited Lindholm Høje Viking Museum, which is built next to a Viking grave site that is over 1,000 years old.
I couldn’t imagine having a more immersive peek into what Viking life was like.
We took a 90-minute bus ride from Haugesund to the small town of Fjæra where we took a scenic cruise on the stunning Åkrafjord, getting up close and personal with the dramatic Langfoss waterfall.
Lunch was at Eljervik Gard, a small farm that had been run by the same family for generations. Enjoying good food and spending time with locals is one of my favorite things to do in a destination. I don’t always love long bus rides, but this one felt worth it once we got there.
While we were in Vik, we visited the Hopperstad Stave Church, which is made out of wood and dates from around 1130, before taking a bus to Flåm (yes, another bus ride), stopping along the way to take in the incredible views at Tvindefossen waterfall. After lunch in Flåm, we rode the iconic Flåm Railway (The Flåmsbana).
Is riding the Flåm Railway (The Flåmsbana) worth it?
If you’re visiting Norway to see dramatic landscapes, fjords and waterfalls, while also traveling on a historic train route, then yes, riding the Flåm Railway is definitely worth it. It is famous for being one of the world’s most scenic rail journeys and is an engineering marvel.
For me, the highlight of the journey was the 5-minute stop at a viewing platform directly in front of the incredible Kjosfossen, another mighty waterfall in this region. Hot tip: Exit the train as early as possible to get a good viewing spot. The entire train will be exiting quickly onto the viewing platform, so be aware that there’s going to be some crowding. These five minutes felt the most “touristy” in our entire trip, but it was 100% worth it.
After transferring at Myrdal Station, we took another train to Voss where we enjoyed a coffee and pastry at a historic hotel before traveling back to Vik.
Is Denmark worth your time on a Norway itinerary?
Yes, choosing a Norway cruise itinerary that includes Denmark is very worth your time. This was our first time visiting Copenhagen, and the three days we spent there were full of sightseeing, eating at excellent restaurants, great cafes, and meeting friendly locals. We visited Tivoli Gardens, and immediately understood how it inspired Walt Disney to create Disneyland and Walt Disney World.
In addition to our era of the Vikings day in Aalborg, we also visited Aarhus, Denmark, which was the one port we decided to visit independently. We bought tickets to ARoS, the local art museum, and spent several hours enjoying modern art, photography, the incredible As Seen Below – The Dome, and Olafur Eliasson’s Your Rainbow Panorama on its roof.
The views through the rainbow of Aarhus were both dramatic and playful. We enjoyed lunch at Aarhus Street Food, which had food stalls with cuisine from around the world. I went for more smørrebrød to properly close out our time in Denmark.
What are Norway's coastal cities actually like?
Norway’s coastal cities were charming and vibrant, with Kristiansand especially feeling young and alive. After a beautiful and dramatic sail into Oslo via Oslofjord (which geographically is a rift valley/technically not a fjord), our ship stayed in the city overnight, giving us two full days to explore the city.
On the first day, we visited the elegant Sommerro (one of my hotel partners), toured the hotel, and enjoyed a great lunch on their rooftop at Izakaya Bar & Terrace. Following lunch, we visited Oslo’s famous Vigeland sculpture park, which truly is a celebration of the human form.
Day two, we went on a walking food tour of Oslo, visiting several neighborhoods, bakeries, food markets, and restaurants along the way. In addition to sampling salmon, reindeer, moose, and whale, we also had fresh cinnamon buns, a fishcake sandwich, and a waffle from Harald’s Vaffel, which was topped with sour cream, raspberry jam, and brown cheese.
You fold the waffle in half like a taco (jam to sour cream), and eat it with your hands. It does not sound like ingredients that should go together, but the combination surprisingly worked very well. It was a delicious treat.
While I didn’t get to properly tour Stavanger, we enjoyed an excellent excursion that day. We walked right off of our ship (with only five other passengers) onto Fremad II, a wooden fishing boat from 1888. Once we left the city limits of Stavanger, passing under the bridge, we were able to pick up some speed and enjoyed some wonderful views on a deep-sea fishing expedition.
I was a bit hesitant to book this one because it was outside of my comfort zone, but the ship’s crew was made up of local volunteers who loved being out on the sea. Their passion for what they did was very evident and made us feel very welcome. They even treated us to coffee and waffles onboard (with jam and sour cream, no brown cheese this time). The weather was on our side, and the sea was incredibly still, but the only thing I caught was the sun. It was an excellent day enjoying a unique experience.
Stavanger was our final port on this cruise, and we watched the beautiful sailaway from the ship’s aft enjoying cocktails with some of the friends we made onboard.
Which kind of Norway cruise is right for you?
The kind of Norway cruise that is right for you really depends on where you’ve been before, where you’d like to go, and on the type of experience you’re seeking.
If you’ve never been to Norway or Scandinavia before, an itinerary similar to this one is an excellent first way to see the region. If your primary goal is to visit coastal villages and hopefully see the Northern Lights, you will want to find a cruise that goes farther north (visiting Tromsø, for example), at the right time of the year.
If you’re adventurous, enjoy enrichment and educational programs, and want to see glaciers, ice formations, and polar bears in the wild (from a safe distance), an expedition cruise in the Arctic Circle exploring Svalbard might be the right option.
Working with an expert who understands the differences is essential when choosing the right Norway cruise for you.
Was visiting Denmark and Norway on an ultra-luxury cruise the right move for me?
At first, I was not convinced, but by the end of our vacation, yes, I felt like an ultra-luxury cruise in Denmark and Norway was absolutely the right move for me. The onboard atmosphere was very friendly which, quite frankly, surprised me. I was expecting it to feel a lot more formal and stuffy than it actually did (there were some moments, but it wasn’t the overall vibe).
Since ultra-luxury cruise ships are smaller, we were able to visit ports that larger ships can’t visit. When we were in Vik, we were the only ship in the fjord. This felt very right for the way I like to travel.
When we first got on board, my husband and I were all too aware that we were not the target demographic for Silversea. However, after we got a feel for the ship’s rhythm, the relaxed atmosphere, the excellent service, and how well taken care of we were, we felt completely at ease. There were people of all generations on board, and everyone was there to enjoy a memorable vacation.
Once we started spending time with other passengers, especially at the LGBTQ+ meetup, we really felt a great sense of community and loved the overall experience.
This was one of our favorite vacations ever and a very tough one to come home from.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is a Silversea cruise all-inclusive?
Largely, yes. Your fare includes your suite, meals, drinks including alcohol, wifi, gratuities, onboard entertainment, spa and fitness club access, butler service and, depending on the fare, excursion credits. There are specialty restaurants that come with an additional cost (and some upsell alcohol options as well), but there are included items in all the restaurants.
Is butler service included on a Silversea cruise?
Yes. All suites on board Silversea ships include butler service. Our butler transformed our coffee table into a fully set table for in-suite dining (the leaf hides in your walk-in closet), made our dining and spa reservations, offered to unpack our suitcases, and brought us a pillow menu on the first day so we could feel the different options and choose what we wanted. Having breakfast in the suite before early excursions was a game changer.
Do you need to book shore excursions in advance in Norway?
Yes, it is best practice to book your excursions in advance in Norway. Aside from some coastal towns and cities, many of the sites you’ll want to visit include bus rides with multiple stops on long days. Booking through the cruise line also means the ship will wait for its own excursions if they are running late.
How many fjords do you actually visit on a Norway cruise?
The number of fjords you visit will vary from one itinerary to another, but we only ported in one fjord on this twelve-night itinerary (Vik i Sogn). That said, most of the ports we visited on this itinerary included excursion options that were visits to some of Norway’s most famous fjords.
Is Norway expensive for cruise passengers?
Compared to destinations in other parts of Europe, Norway and Denmark are more expensive overall for things like dining in restaurants, shopping, and hotels. Having meals included in your cruise fare helps offset that cost.
What is the dress code on a Silversea cruise?
The dress code applies after 6:00 PM in all public, indoor venues, but it is not as strict as you might expect. Ladies may wear blouses with trousers, refined denim, or casual dresses and skirts, pairing their attire with heels, wedges, flats, or dress sneakers. Gentlemen may wear collared shirts with dress pants or refined denim, paired with dress shoes, dress sneakers, or loafers. Jackets are optional. Silversea calls its dressier evenings formal optional, so formal attire is never required. Our twelve-night voyage had two of them. On those nights, women could wear evening gowns or cocktail dresses, and men needed a button-down shirt with trousers, dress pants, or a full suit, with a jacket and neck tie optional. Some people did dress to black-tie level, including a few tuxedos, but most people looked like they were going to dinner at a nice restaurant.
When is the best time of year to cruise Denmark and Norway?
The best time of year depends on the experience you’re seeking. For a traditional cruise like this one with comfortable weather for being outdoors all day, summer time is best (we went in early August). For an expedition cruise or a coastal cruise with Northern Lights goals, winter and the spring and fall equinoxes are the best times to visit.
Is Silversea a good fit for travelers under 60?
If you are someone who enjoys a slower pace, relaxing days on board, good food, and being pampered, Silversea is a good fit, regardless of age. If you’re seeking large-scale shows, a bustling casino and a busy night club, Silversea may not be the best fit.
